Preparing a New Lawn

 


No matter the size of your yard, preparing a new lawn is a big job. There are four basic steps that one should follow when planting a new lawn. Whichever method of lawn planting you decide upon, these steps will still need to be taken.

Remove Old Turf
Solarization or heavy mulching are two methods to consider to kill and remove your poor-quality existing turf. Solarization is basically baking the grass and weeds to death beneath a layer of clear plastic that's placed on top of the lawn. This will take about two months, as long as you put the plastic down when the weather is warm. Smothering ragged turf with mulches like old carpeting, several layers of newspaper covered by 3 inches of wood chips or 6 inches of wood chips by thems elves will have a similar effect.

Where possible, we recommend avoiding herbacides at all costs. There are enough chemicals in our environment as it is :( .

When preparing a new lawn, the fastest way to get the job done without using herbacides is mechanical (manual or power) removal. For small lawns, a grape (grubbing) hoe is a very good tool for removing existing turf. two people can can remove up to about 300 square feet in an hour. For large lawns you should really consider renting a sod cutter. A sod cutter slices under the grass, and this enables you to pull up old turf in strips. Cut the turf when moist to make the job even easier.

After using the sod cutter, one should follow up with soil tilling so as to alleviate compaction and to prepare the soil for the improvement additions you'll add in later.

We don't recommend you try turning existing turf into the soil with a tiller or cultivatoras raking out the pieces of turf after they've been turned is very very frustrating!

Levelling out your soil
You should always make sure that the ground slopes away from your house in all directions - making sure it it drops at least 2 or 3 inches for every ten feet. The completed grade should also match the level of existing fixtures, such as paths and patios.

Note: the soil level should be about two inches lower than your fixtures if you will be replanting with seed (and adding one inch of amendments) or if you will be replanting with sod and adding an inch of amendments. The aim is to have the level even with the level of your fixtures after the sod has been planted and amendments added.

The best way to regrade your soil is first to remove the topsoil from the problem areas. Make initial adjustments to the subsoil by scraping high areas away and filling in the low areas. After you ahve done this, spread about two inches of the reserved topsoil back over the subsoil, and then till it into the first couple of inches of the subsoil. By ding this, you will help prevent any drainage problems between the two soil layers.

Finally, spread out the rest of your topsoil - this should make up at least another 4 inches. If you are needing to add topsoil, then buy a loam that's free of debris, such as stones or roots. It should be absolutely free of any weed seeds and pesticides.

By far, a landscaping rake is generally the best tool for working this topsoil to the proper grade if you're doing it by yourself.

Note: The maximum slope in a lawn should be no more than 12 inches for every 4 feet. If the drop is greater than this, then you should plan to build a low retaining wall or decide to cover the slope with a hardy ground cover or an ornamental type of grass.

Amend the Soil
This is the time to add soil enhancements such as organic matter, fertilizer, and lime or sulfur. This is the perfect opportunity to do this so don't skimp. The correct way to proceed of course is to add recommended amendments according to the results of your soil Ph test. Recommendations will therefore vary depending on your soil's nutrient, organic matter, and pH levels and will also vary according to your soil type.

To make sure of an even application of amendments - try dividing the recommended amounts into two halves and then apply one half while walking in one direction and then apply the other half while you walk this time in a perpendicular direction (ie walk along the x axis, followed by the y axis). After application, till the amendments into the top 6 inches of soil.

If weeds were one of the reasons for redoing your lawn, you should allow the many weed seeds in the turned soil to sprout - If you then rake through or till under these new weed seedlings, you should be able to eliminate most annual weeds.

Rake Smooth and Firm
Rake the area that is to be replanted until it is as smooth as you can get it. You should remove any stones or vegetative matter that has ben brought to the surface by the tilling action. Once you're satisfied with the result, give the ground a water and check for puddles. Once the soil is dry enough to be worked effectively, you can move soil again from high spots to fill the depressions.

Note: seed planted in soil that is too loose will probaly end up being planted too deeply - the result of this being the plants may die before they reach the surface. To compact the soil to the right amount, fill a lawn roller about 1/3 full of water and roll the soil until your footprints are no deeper than about 1/2 inch.

Complete your new lawn preparation by thoroughly watering the area two days before planting. Check that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 5 or 6 inches.


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