Prepare the soil on which turf is to be laid exactly as for seeding but with its surface as much lower than the finish grade as the sods are thick. Make sure that the soil is moderately compacted and then loosened slightly on its surface by raking. This helps to assure a better bond between sods and soil.

Lay the sods in rows with the joints staggered like joints between bricks in a wall. If the sods have been well cut and carefully handled, little or no packing of soil beneath them will be needed, but should they have lost some of their soil and be thinner in spots than the required thickness, pack sufficient soil beneath them as the work proceeds to bring them perfectly level. Butt the sods closely together and set them firmly in position by giving each several blows with the back of the spade.

When several square yards have been laid, give them an additional firming by beating them with a wooden tamper. Then water thoroughly with a sprinkler giving a fine spray. The following day, or as soon as the grass has dried, sprinkle enough sifted soil over the surface so that when brushed down it fills any crevices or openings that show between the sods. Next, spread a little grass seed along the joints and in any spots where the grass is not too thick and brush it in.

Care of a turf-laid lawn is simple. It must never be permitted to dry out during
its first season. During its first month, if the weather is dry, it should be soaked every second or third day. It may need rolling once or twice in its early weeks. On heavy soil newly laid sods tend to heave out of position during winter. It is better to turf such soils in spring or late summer rather than fall. On steep slopes it is a good plan to drive pegs into some of the sods. These will hold all the sods in position until they have rooted firmly into the soil beneath them. If this is not done, they may slide down the slope under the influence of rain or frost.
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